3D printing for one-off parts, short runs and display models. Every job is quoted on its own, based on what it takes to make.
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Everyday hardware that has to work: brackets, clips, hooks, knobs, cable guides, enclosures, jigs and gears.
A broken latch, a lost knob, a cracked clip on something that otherwise works. Many small plastic parts can be measured, modeled and reprinted.
Physical versions of a design you're developing, so you can check size, fit and feel. When a design is settled, a few copies can be printed together.
Miniatures, display pieces, cosplay parts, desk objects and one-off gifts, printed for surface detail instead of strength.
If you know what you need but have no file, we can help build a printable model from a sketch, measurements or photos.
These are common filament choices and what each is good at. Material and color availability is confirmed in your quote.
| Material | Character | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| PLA | Rigid with a clean surface finish. Softens in heat, so it suits indoor use. | Models, prototypes, organizers, gifts |
| PETG | Tougher and more heat resistant than PLA, with a little flex before it breaks. | Functional parts, outdoor pieces, clips |
| TPU | Flexible and rubbery. Bends and springs back. | Grips, bumpers, gaskets, feet, sleeves |
There's no fixed price list, because two prints of the same size can take very different amounts of time and material. Each quote is built from four things.
How much filament the part uses, including supports.
Larger parts, finer layers and denser infill all take longer on the printer.
Only when you need a model drawn or an existing file changed.
Extra cleanup such as sanding, if you ask for it.
Desktop 3D printing is a poor choice for parts that carry safety-critical loads, such as car, climbing or medical equipment, and for parts that need food-safe certification. Very large flat panels and high volumes are usually cheaper made another way.
If your part falls into one of these, we'll say so before quoting.